Evergreen Cemetery 1887 – Boyle Heights
In Los Angeles, the circus never leaves town. They can’t; they’re six feet under. Evergreen Cemetery is the final resting place for members of the Pacific Coast Showmen’s Assn. An association started in Chicago by Buffalo Bill Cody back in 1913. It appears that carnies, like snowbirds, need a place to sit out the winter. And because the show must go on, members meet yearly during the winter interim, to recognize those that have passed during business hours.
Here at Showman’s rest, you can step upon greatness. Emily Bailey, a 300-pound “fat lady,” who lost her place in the spotlight, after having dropped the bulk; lived to be 99. Or Hugo Zacchini, the first human cannonball. The common freak show of yesteryear’s glory days, has been replaced by “spectaculars.” Those brightly lit beacons emanating from church parking lots across the “urbs.” The zipper, the tilt-a-wheel; an offramp short of a freeway.
To paraphrase Charles Manson “it used to be that if you were crazy , you were different, you were special, now everybody’s crazy.” Maybe he’s right. What it means to be different was questioned in Katherine Dunn’s 1989 landmark novel Geek Love, based on an albino dwarf’s experience of carnie life in her families traveling freak show. An influence that took root in the visual arts as well. Where more and more artist’s explore the validity of what it means to be judged grotesque.
The 400 graves that constitute Showman’s Rest are near First and Evergreen, next to a flagpole, north of the crematorium and reclaimed potter’s field. A “field” where mostly Chinese men were once buried. Evergreen was already a segregated cemetery, but due to anti Chinese immigrant legislation, the law denied these men their name, even in death – and they charged 10 bucks for the favor. The crematorium is the only part of the cemetery owned by LA county. It’s purchase, for the sole purpose of cremating it’s indigent dead. The MTA’s recent expansion of First street, to accommodate the Goldline, uncovered the remains of 174 men. DNA analysis revealed the majority to be Chinese. A shrine to those forgotten souls was recently dedicated – and their remains, ironically, reentered at Evergreen.
btw: links are content
this post has been linked to Taphophile Tragics
The Editor’s current bedside read is David Whitehouse’s first novel “Bed.” It’s grotesque
The showman meet at Evergreen in January
The editor has no explanation why the lion is painted pink
The Chinese acquired land east of Evergreen to bury their dead. The Chinese consul was approached and asked to remove the 902 recorded dead from Evergreen. The pay was a dollar per head
Yes, many come here to wait it out because the snow must go on.
Our Editor Responds: it must
I appreciate your staff writer bringing this piece of history back from the dead. And also the quote from that sage from last century, Manson. This reminds me of another thing I need to write about one day on cemetery history. Hopefully I’ll get to it before my final breath rather than after.
Our Editor Responds: My staff is compromised by a host of volunteers. <– thats dog speak. Don't they do a good job considering they've never received any (s)wag for their efforts? Manson; California's resident sage
History is a misery.
It fascinates, depresses and oppresses me.
Our Editor Responds: If I was able to create a post that evoked all three adjectives, I’ve done my job
Golly, as a race, humans are miserable to each other! I am just so pleased that this is going to be the ‘chinese century’.
Manson may be a woeful example, but he is right in these words, nowadays lots of people are crazy. Crazy is what gets the 15 minutes everyone seems to either crave, or feel entitled to.
I have no idea what happens to the carnival people here in Australia. No group hug that I am aware of. Just a plot cared for by natural family should they be that lucky.
Thanks for linking to Taphophile Tragics and supporting in that way. I will be back again tomorrow for Round 4. I do monitor the blog all week, so post whenever is convenient for you. Warm regards
Our Editor Responds: “As a race, humans are miserable to each other” – sounds like a line out of one of my favorite Bukowski poems. I was happy to participate in Taphophiles Tragics. Whenever I travel I look for two thing – the city dump and the city cemetery. They’re like libraries
What a great piece, PA. And it seems society must always identify and then agree on what is different or other, and use this as the boundary — define the comfort zone by what lies outside. And then we can color inside the lines.
Our Editor Responds: To be a true outsider must take great courage or be an aspect of mental illness. Most people want community, to work their way to the top from inside that community; however obscure. Even Charlie had a crew. The gravy is when the great vortex of mediocrity sucks you in and validates you – then your over.
Anyone who quotes Manson and cites Geek Love in the same paragraph is right with the world. Im my world that is. We do seem to have a proliferation of crazies or are they simply getting all the publicity? They’ve probably always walked among us, just without their face on the hundreds of news outlets. I like the baby on pallets.
Our Editor Responds: I’m at my best and happiest when I’m connecting the dots between a diverse array of unexpected sources. BTW: I discovered a tid bit of information that might interest you. The architect of the crematorium was born in Peoria. He did some major commissions including head architect of the Riverside Inn….congratulation, cool huh? you followed the links
http://www.historicechopark.org/id106.html
i’ve never liked the circus, maybe because it reminds me of just how crazy humanity can be. not just to other species but to each other.
Our Editor Responds: For me, I waver between attraction and repulsion. I guess the Showman’s Association is open to both Circus and Carnival folk. I remember Circus Vargas used to come to town – in South Pasadena (the baseball diamond). I hated the way they treated their animals
Goodo, I am glad you reposted into Round #4, I was nearly going to suggest that yesterday. Welcome aboard …
Can I go visit this place?
Our Editor Responds: Yes, just reread the post if you plan on visiting Showman’s Rest. It gives a good description on how to find it. The entrance is at the opposite end; Evergreen and First. The area host several cemeteries. Serbian Orthodox, Chinese, and the Jewish Home of Peace. The Barrymore acting family is at Calvery.
Interesting story.
Our Editor Responds: It is Ann. Thank you for visiting
These are elements of grotesque, in more way than one. The indignities faced by the Chinese…
Our Editor Responds: In California, the Chinese were second only to the Indians in terms of indignities. Thank you for visiting
Where on earth do you find these stories and history? I thought I was good a digging stuff up, but you are amazing! And I do so love an above ground monument cemetery. Maybe I’m just as crazy as the rest. I’ve travelled around this country a fair amount, and you are the exception to the rule that long time residents of an area almost always know less about their hometown than the transplants. Good on you!
Our Editor Responds: You are so sweet. Just when I think I’m ready to throw in the towel, someone like yourself comes along and recognizes the care and effort I put into what I do. My ego needs that.
I make public art for local municipalities. When I’m a finalist on a project, win or loose, I have to learn everything I can about an area. It is amazing how many names interconnect in Los Angeles history. 7 degrees of separation? (usually much less)
I sometimes entertain the great notion of a green burial..but I do want a large headstone to weather, get a great tilt to it over time, and above all, remain.
http://www.glendalenaturepreserve.org/brochurefarm01.pdf
I read up on your book, Bed, and it doesn’t sound enticing to me, it isn’t a genre I’m drawn to.
Our Editor Responds: interesting video on the tube touting the book. In Norway they dip you in liquid nitrogen, shatter your corpse, throw you in the ground and plant a tree on top (source “Stiff” by Mary Roach <– ironically)
So many things in this post make me shudder.
Our Editor Replies: historically, you can’t top Boyle Heights
You do have a talent for unearthing bizarre stories. I need to read this when I’m more awake. I’ll come back later after I’m fortified with a few jolts of caffeine.
Our Editor Responds: one of my occasional epics
Okay, a headstone AND a tree.
Once again, I am left thinking that this is one of my very favorite blogs. You are fabulous, and I thank you for your tip today. Hey, by the way, for some reason, on my iPad, I can never post comments here. I seem to need a wordpress account.
Our Editor Responds: “The little blog that could” deserves to be a favorite. Check out my “about Pasadena Adjacent” I’m guilting people into commenting. Next time you comment, try using a different e-mail and leaving the URL blank. It will get held up for until “the editor” approves – but that may work
Once again, I’m amazed–at the breadth of your knowledge, at your authorial voice, at the minutiae you find. There’s a tightrope here, stretched between fun and history’s shame, and you walk it so well.
Our Editor Responds: Ah flattery – it’ll get you everywhere with me. I lived in the area for nearly a decade but it was a Boyle Heights cop who told me about the Showman. They have a FB page
While a fascinating history to read, there is something especially gruesome about this place. Perhaps it is all the human pain of the heart that is also buried here.
Our Editor Responds: Welcome Annie. Certainly that area with it’s unmarked dead and unclaimed indigents
My goodness….where do you get this stuff?
Our Editor Responds: From our grandmother – the minor historian
It’s a circus around here!
Fascinating.
Our Editor Responds: My credo is, if you want to know a place, visit the city cemetery and city dump
Do you ever get to thinking that, not matter how bad things are in terms of social justice, they used to be worse? Not a new idea, but sometimes it whacks me right between the eyes.
I love that first photo. And I love fat ladies who live to be 99.
Our Editor Responds: The era of expansion was brutal. And fat ladies do! I’m a direct descendent of three generations of fat ladies who lived into their mid 90′s My grandmother – her grandmother and her great grandmother
Oh there are no circus folk six feet under in the Evergreen Cemetery PA, they’re all reincarnated and working happily away in the few remaining circuses all over the world having a brilliant time..the now much slimmer fat lady is the queen of the high wire and happier than she’s ever been, if you ever go to a circus again, notice the twinkle in the strong man’s eye and you’ll know he’s been around a few times before….well that’s my theory and I’m sticking to it, much less gruesome than some I’ve read haha!
Our Editor Responds: You must be one of those folks who take the sunny side of life even into death; and the fat lady wasn’t required to sing – hear hear!
Wonderful post, PA. One of your best ever which is saying something for a girl who dotes on your Victor Walks as I do. Also love Grace’s theory. I happily subscribe.
Our Editor Responds: Thank you. I see you prefer Grace’s afterlife theory. If memory recalls, you weren’t to crazy about the rainbow bridge
btw: Victor walked again last night – under and above the Eagle’s rock
Finally made it back to read again, a little more awake so I can appreciate the depth of this post. I’m in awe of what you pulled together here. Love all the comments too.
It’s a shameful bit of history. And aren’t circuses so sad? The people and the animals.
One last thing: it’s fascinating how that baby is so life-like and yet really looks grotesque – like some monster bursting with destructive potential.
Our Editor Responds: You went to the links – Bless you. The first link is the Aussie artist Ron Muek but the second is my favorite. It’s actually a contemporary marble of a living woman; a victim of the morning sickness drug Thalidomide. If you go back and look closely you’ll see those are nubs and not the limblessness of classical antiquity. Same with her feet. The last is from the film “The Fly” Remember “help me”?
There are two other Showman’s Rest. One in Hugo Oklahoma. Once known as Circus USA. It’s more inclusive “Three world champion rodeo cowboys, the original Marlboro Man, and the Buster Brown midget.”
The other Showmen’s Rest and the first, is in Forest Park, Illinois. On June 22 1918, 5 days after the Showman’s association purchased 750 plots, a train plowed into a 26 car circus train. 56 of the 86 who perished were unknown. Some were roustabouts and temporary workers hired just hours or days before. They were buried in a mass grave. The site is marked by concrete elephants
Our Editor Responds: Welcome Gerald the Carney. Wow, do we know each other?
Where will this angel boy rest?
http://latimesblogs.latimes.com/nationnow/2012/01/caleb-kors-circus-death.html?track=icymi
Our Editor Responds: tragic – here’s a link to the big top portal to the afterworld
http://www.showmensleague.org/showmens-rest
Fascinating story PA!!! Ditto re: your breadth of knowledge…especially of the obscure histories of the area!!! Kudos!!!